Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, nestled along the Big Sur coastline of California, is renowned for its stunning ocean views, thriving redwoods, and the McWay waterfall.

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park encompasses 3,762 acres and was established in 1962. You´ll find this park 12 miles south of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park.

Named after a beloved local pioneer, Julia Pfeiffer Burns, the park offers visitors an immersive experience comprised of both natural beauty and historical significance. In this park, you can for instance go hiking through ancient redwoods, visit the waterfall, or explore the underwater wonders of the marine sanctuary. The park´s diverse landscapes, from rugged cliffs to lush forests, make it a captivating spot along the Pacific Coast. Some of the redwoods that grow here are 300-foot tall and some sprouted from a seed some 2,500 years ago.

Julia Pfeiffer Burns, for whom the park is named, was a prominent figure in Big Sur’s early 20th-century history. She was a rancher in the Big Sur region known for her deep connection to the land and the local community, and she lived in the area for most of her life, until her death in 1928. Helen Hooper Brown, a close friend of Julia’s and the wife of a prominent New York financier, donated the land that would become the park in the early 1960s, with the stipulation that it be named in Julia’s honor. The park preserves the rugged beauty that Julia loved, offering a glimpse into the natural world that shaped her life.

Examples of Attractions

Coastal Views and Trails

The park is renowned for its hiking trails, which wind through redwood groves and along the coastal bluffs, offering spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean. The Ewoldsen Trail is a popular choice for those seeking a more challenging hike. This trail ascends through a redwood canyon and provides good views of the ocean, making it a favorite for both locals and tourists.

McWay Falls

McWay Falls is an 80-foot waterfall that plunges onto a secluded beach before flowing into the Pacific Ocean. This waterfall is one of the few in the world that empties directly into the ocean, making it a mesmerizing sight. The best view of McWay Falls is from the Waterfall Overlook Trail, a short, accessible path that offers panoramic views of the falls and the surrounding coastline.

Underwater Park

Extending beyond the shore, Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park connects to an underwater area that is part of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. This marine reserve protects a diverse range of marine life, including kelp forests, which are home to fish, invertebrates, and marine mammals like sea otters and seals. The underwater park is a popular spot for scuba divers and snorkelers eager to explore California’s rich marine biodiversity.

History of the Land 1870-1962

The Browns purchase Saddle Rock Ranch

Christopher and Rachel McWay homesteaded on this land in the late 1870s, and the waterfall is named after them.

In 1924, the former U.S. Representative Lathrop Brown and his wife Hélène were on a horse and mule trip in the Big Sur area and were mesmerized by the Saddle Rock Cove – the spot where the waterfall pours over the rocky bluff and into the Pacific Ocean. They had been looking for land to build a home on, and now they purchased 1,800 acres of cattle ranch from the McWays.

Julia Pfeiffer Burns

Julia Pfeiffer was the daughter of a pioneer homesteader named Michael Pfeiffer; one of the first permanent settlers of European origin in the Big Sur area. In 1914, when she was 47-years-old, Julia married John Burns.

The Burns leased a ranch at Burn Creek, and leased pasture from the McWays at Saddle Rock Ranch. This is how Julia and Hélène eventually got to know each other, and they formed a strong friendship that lasted until Julia´s death in 1928.

The Redwood Cabin and The Waterfall House – buildings erected by the Browns

The Browns started by building a rustic redwood cambin at the top of cliffs opposite from the McWay Falls. In 1940, they replaced it with a modern two-story house they named Waterfall House. Waterfall House was located halfway down the cliff from the newly completed Carmel San Simeon Highway, and could be reached by funicular railway. From the master bedroom, the Browns had a splendid view of the Saddle Rock Cove.

Saddle Rock Ranch foreman Hans Ewoldsen

Hans Ewoldsen was the driving force behind getting electricity to this land. When the Carmel San Simeon Highway was being constructed, he utilized the project´s machine shop to build a Pelton wheel, which he installed on McWay Creek in 1932. The wheel ran a 32-volt generator, and for the very first time, someone in the Big Sur area had aelectricity. The electricity was transmitted to three homes and a blacksmith shop, and was later also used to run the abovementioned funicular railway that connected Waterfall House to the highway.

Tin House – another building erected by the Browns

In 1944, the Browns decided to build a house on a ridge three miles inland, 1960 ft above the coast and well over the fog.

Building materials were rationed due to World War II and gasoline was also in short supply. Due to the scarcity of gasoline, some gas stations had gone out of business, so the Browns purchased two gas station buildings and used the material from them to build their new house.

The Browns called it the Gas Station, but it later became known as Tin House.

Regretably, the Browns never lived in their house. They had not anticipated how much the metal would expand in the sun and contract in the nighttime, and they very much disliked the sounds produced by these movements. They only spend one night in the house.

Donation

In 1956, the Browns moved to Florida, and Lathrop died there in 1959.

In 1961, Hélène donated the entire property to the state, with some stipulations:

The land had to be turned into a state park, and the park had to be named after her good friend Julia Pfeiffer Burns, who Hélène called ”a true pioneer”.
The Waterfall House should be converted into a ”museum for the custody and display of indigenous Indian relics, flora and fauna of the California coastal area, and historical objects pertaining to the Big Sur country”.

The museum was not completed in time, and – persuant to the terms of the donation – Waterfall House was therefore demolished in 1965.

Tin House is still there, and there are two hiking trails that can be used to get to it. One of these trails is the road that was built in the 1940s to haul all the materials (including the two disassembled gas station buildings) from Highway 1 to the construction site. It is only a six-mile hike, but it is very steep. The Tanbark Trail is a seven-mile round tripe hike on the south side of the highway bridge. It is longer, but not as steep as the old construction road. The total elevation gain is circa 2,000 feet.

Flora and Fauna in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

The park’s environment is a mix of coastal and forested ecosystems, supporting a wide variety of plant and animal species. The towering coastal redwoods are perhaps the most iconic of the park’s flora, some of which are over 1,000 years old. In the shaded canyons beneath these ancient trees, you’ll find ferns, wildflowers, and other plants that thrive in the cool, moist environment.

Wildlife in the park includes deer, bobcats, and a variety of bird species such as peregrine falcons, which nest in the cliffs, and the rare California condor, which has been reintroduced to the area. Marine life is equally abundant, with seasonal whale migrations visible from the shore and frequent sightings of dolphins and sea lions in the waters offshore.

Recreation and Activities

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park offers a wide range of recreational activities that allow visitors to experience the park’s natural beauty:

Hiking: The park’s trails range from easy walks to more strenuous hikes, catering to all levels of outdoor enthusiasts. Each trail offers unique perspectives of the park’s diverse landscapes, from towering redwoods to rugged coastal cliffs.
Photography: The park’s dramatic scenery makes it a popular destination for photographers, particularly those interested in capturing the iconic McWay Falls, the towering redwoods, and the striking coastal vistas. Sunrise and sunset are especially popular times for photography, as the light bathes the landscape in warm, golden hues.
Wildlife Watching: With its rich biodiversity, the park is a great place for wildlife observation. Birdwatchers can spot a variety of species, while lucky visitors might catch a glimpse of larger mammals like deer or even a bobcat.
Scuba Diving and Snorkeling: The park’s underwater area is a paradise for divers and snorkelers. The kelp forests and rocky reefs provide a habitat for a variety of marine life, making it one of the most biologically rich areas in California.
Camping: While the park itself has limited camping options due to its small size, there are nearby campgrounds in the Big Sur area. These sites allow visitors to fully immerse themselves in the beauty of the region, surrounded by redwoods and within easy reach of the park.

Conservation and Preservation

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is not only a place of beauty but also a vital area for conservation. The park is part of California’s state park system, which is dedicated to preserving both natural and cultural resources. Conservation efforts in the park include protecting the old-growth redwoods, preserving the coastal ecosystems, and maintaining the marine habitats within the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary.

Examples of ongoing conservation work are habitat restoration, invasive species management, and research on the park’s flora and fauna. These efforts ensure that the park’s ecosystems remain healthy and vibrant for future generations to enjoy. One notable example of invasive species management in the park is the removal of non-native acacia trees and planting indigenous plants instead.

In the summer of 2008, the California wildfires burned the upper parts of the park, but did not pass Highway 1.